1. Collect 20-24 ties, all of about the same weight. I find it best to try and keep within two color ranges, e.g., blues and pinks, or navy and red. You can use a wide range of hues in the mix, but it works well if there aren't too many colors. Another way to collect ties is to look for patterns of similar scales, or repetitions. For example, I did one all with paisley ties; one all in reds; one all in black and white; one in neutrals/browns; and quite a few with large abstract scale prints of multicolors. Silk and polyester can be used in the same skirts as along as they're about the same weight.
   
   
2. Use one tie as a template, and trace the finished size onto lightweight cardboard or poster board. Add 1/4" seam allowances to the long edges. The length of the finished skirt is a personal thing, so measure the length you want, and make the template this length.
   
   
3. Remove the tie labels carefully.
   
   
4. Take the ties apart by looking at the back and finding the beginning and ending threads at the top and bottom of the ties.  Clip these threads, and pull out the long thread. Well-made ties will have been hand sewn together, and the thread will come out in one long pull. Polyester ties are often machine sewn with a chain stitch, so once the "right" part of the chain is pulled, the whole thread comes out in one piece.
   
   
5. Remove the interfacing in the center of the tie. Discard.
   
   
6. Check for stains, and use some squirt-on stain remover.  If there are worn areas, check to see if the template can avoid the worn spots. Hand wash the ties in cold water in the kitchen sink with some Woolite for Darks cleaner.  Don't wring, but gently massage the ties, take out and wrap in bath towels. Gently squeeze the water out.  Before the ties dry completely, iron flat with a dry iron.
   
   
7. Lay out each tie on a self-healing cutting board. Place template on top, MATCHING THE POINTED END TO THE FINISHED POINTY BOTTOM OF THE TIES. This is important, as the finished end has the lining still attached and provides the "hem".  Cut around the template using a rotary cutter.  (If you don't have a mat and rotary cutter, make the template out of a lighter weight paper, and gently pin to the ties before cutting out with scissors).  Be very careful when cutting, as the ties are cut on the bias and there's a lot of "give".
   
   
8. Once all ties are cut, gently lay them out on the floor to arrange them in a pleasing manner. Try to mix and match for the best effect. Don't put patterns of similar size next to each other, unless the whole tie is of the same scale pattern. Vary the patterns and scale.
   
   
9. Carefully pick up two ties and pin together at about 4 inch intervals.  I find I need to pin every seam, or else the varying weights and biases will cause the ties to stretch as they're being sewn.
   
   
10. I used my serger with the DIFFERENTIAL FEED to sew the long seams.  This feature allows the fabric to pass through the machine without being stretched. A regular sewing machine with a normal presser foot will stretch the seam and it will end up being "wavy". If you need to use a regular machine, it would work if you have a WALKING FOOT   - the kind quilters use so both layers of fabric feed through the machine at the same rate
    ( ergo - no stretching).  You will need to finish the seams if you use a regular sewing machine.
    
    
11. When all the ties have been sewn together, use a large darning needle or bodkin to thread the serger tails back through the serged seam to anchor the long seams at the bottom of the skirt.  The top skirt seams will be encased so don't need to be threaded back.
    
    
12. There are two options to finish the top edge.  You can serge or clean finish the top, fold over, and sew down to make an elastic casing. Or you can add a piece of cotton facing to hold the elastic.  Cut a piece of elastic equaling your waist measurement minus 2 inches. Thread through and secure.
    
    
13. Carefully press your finished creation.
    
    ENJOY!

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